Відео

Yeah, to remove the same amount of wood/steel/whatever requires a certain amount energy (Joules) and doing that in a set time gives J/s or watts. The brushless tools should have a slight advantage as their motor's are more efficient (corded tools are mostly using brushed universal motors), but it won't be as much as brushed vs brushless 18V tools as the corded tools have a voltage advantage. A lot of battery tools can exceed what you can pull from standard AC plugs (usually 2,400W), but only in short bursts or the battery overheats. Battery tools are still behind in continuous use tools like vacuums. You can design a battery vacuum to be as powerful as corded, but it'll only run for 10-20min, and no one wants that.

J2 pin is held at ~3V for run, J2 gets pulled to 0V for stop. Turning J2 on needs a specific pulse on J1. I cover this in video [005] ua-cam.com/video/q7spzrIbdKY/v-deo.html

@@toolscientist Awesome info! Is the reason you can’t just continuously apply 12v to J1 because then J2 will never go low?

@karlkalina3022 No. If J1 is held high for more than 40ms, J2 will go low again. You need to give J1 a pulse longer than 20ms but shorter than 40ms.

Any DIY charger will need to be able to control the current. The signalling is fairly simple: the battery just asks for a particular current, and the charger obliges. But if you can't control the current of your charger via an arduino, then you won't get very far. As for the programming side, your best bet is to try ChatGPT. You want modules that: send UART commands; receiving the batteries replies; and switches between the states. You'll want to screenshot the protocol summary at the end and convert it into a state transition diagram. There is an older protocol that just uses simple pulses on J1 and J2. I know older batteries use it, and I guess newer batteries will have it so they can work on older chargers. Pretty sure it only does slow charging, though. I've never looked at this protocol as I thought no one would be interested, but I guess it would be useful for people that want to make simple DIY slow chargers.

@@toolscientist controlling the current isn't very difficult, I have plenty of circuits that can do that. But the batteries will not charge to the center pin without first receiving signal on J1 and J2. I know enough about programming but I could probably figure out a program it, but I don't quite understand the signals or specifically how to incorporate them into a program. I don't know how to make the battery receive the charge.

That's the plan. I just upgraded from a 100x100x100mm printer to a 240x240x240mm printer last week, which will allow me to print that whole inner piece as one part. I'll do a multi-cyclone mod and a cylinder filter mod and see how they compare

I truely mean this, thank you so much for your work. If you make it, I'll buy it, that is if you make it available for sale. I don't have a 3D printer, so it'd be great if you sold the part pre-made.

Most likely bricked. Very old ones might work. Can't hurt to try.

@@toolscientist very thank you . I tried one of them and it doesn't work (pcb bl1830 rev:3.1 2014.03 08) cells +-0,1V I will try the others as well

The first code is 0301? That's interesting. Can you record it and post a video? You might not be able to post a link (they often get silently removed), so you might have to post the youtube video ID (string of characters at the end of the URL)

SoC can easily be estimated from voltage. Every M12 tool shows SoC and they definitely don't communicate. As I said, I haven't tested every tool. I'll be very interested to hear if anyone can show battery/tool communication, but so far no one has.

@@toolscientist When it exactly matches the on-battery display that uses coulomb counting? Fat chance. Again, you tested only the cheapest tools, no ONE-KEY and no dual-battery and made a faulty conclusion.

@straightpipediesel they don't use coulomb counting. Put a 5Ah on a blower, hold trigger, push button, and it'll show 2-3 LEDs. Let go of the trigger and It'll instantly go back to 4 LEDs. It's purely voltage based. I've looked at one-key app images and videos and never seen battery info. Not battery type, charge cycles, days since first charge, or anything. I'd be happy to be wrong as it would make reverse engineering their diagnostics very easy. If you can show me something that shows there is communication, then I'd be very keen to hear it, but battery SoC is not proof.

@@toolscientist I'm sorry, but you don't know anything about Li-Ion if you think this thing is voltage based. Put a dead battery on the charger for 10 minutes and check the status, it doesn't read full. There's 0 science here and 100% guesses.

@@toolscientist I just did that and it didn't drop 2-3 at all. I have never seen that behavior except near empty. Maybe the batteries for APAC are cheaper.

We get AEG in Australia, which is identical to Ridgid. Don't have any of their stuff yet, maybe next year. Check out Harrison Hobbies who has the best example of an AC-DC adapter. Short version is that it's expensive and still underpowered for some tools.

@@toolscientist Is it more expensive than buy multiple batteries I would just like something that could get me at least 6 amps of output. Just for a backup you know? But thank you for the response I really appreciate it! I'll go check out Harrison Hobbies now!

@@SuperHondaFitDriver most 18V tools are typically 20-40A (400-800W), and some will go over 80A (1,600W)

@@toolscientist oh I Guess 6 amp and 6 amp hours is very different 😅😅

Interesting! Nailers would be hard as the motor is only on for about 0.5sec. Did you have datalogging or were you just using a clamp meter?

Isn't that what I did? Just the positive was connected with copper strip and negative was connected with thick wire.

@@toolscientist In my opinion the connecting terminal blocks on Milwaukee and DeWalt batteries and their tools aren’t all that great. Could be better! Look at Makitas 18V and 40V tools and batteries connecting terminal blocks.

"In America, first you collect the dust, then you get the power, then you get the women"

If I do the mylti-cyclone mod, then there's "Say hello to my little cyclones!"

@@toolscientist the only thing in this world that gives cyclones is...balls.

Been wanting to do this since I first bought this vac (late 2019). Finally got the time to do it. Actual project started in Feb this year.

Unfortunately I've sold this car and I'm not willing to do experiments on my new car as I need it.

I had thought of modding it to accept Dewalt filters as they're larger, cheaper, and easier to clean, but I hadn't thought to try a bag mod. It would be tricky as the cannister only opens at the bottom, so you'd have to slide your hand up the side to unlatch and remove it. Hard to compete with the flow rate of a bag, but ultimately it's still just a filter that will reduce the flow as you add dust, just not as fast as a raw filters. A well designed cyclone will give you less flow at the start, but should stay very flat as you add dust. I've got an old dyson, and its filter still looks pristine. If I do the multi-cyclone mod, then an interesting follow-up would be to get an old shop vac and do a bag vs multi-cyclone experiment. If the cyclone flow rate doesn't overtake the bag until the bag is nearly full, then that's a win for the bag.

Yeah, I've seen 4thewin's vid and I plan on doing something similar. Tiger Blood + 4theWinning!

Tiger King Blood? Is that a cross between Tiger King and Charlie Sheen? I'm not sure if the world is ready for that crossover.

Winning!

That's not very pimp, though. "Yo dawg, I heard you don't like clogged filters...so I removed your filter"

👍

I'd have to test other vacs to compare. They might all lose flow rate this fast. The simplest thing they could have done is just use a big cylindrical filter that'll take longer to clog and will be easier to clean. I do want to try a multi-cyclone, though. 440g is weak-sauce. I want to be able to dump >2kg into this vac and have it still partying

Only "finance bro", though. I might try again in a few months to get to "Tiger Blood" status. I want to be able to dump >2kg in this thing and have it still wanting to party.

I think I should change it to Iguana Nose so that it abbreviates to "in."

I actually find "cubic ferrets per minute" to be a fairly intuitive unit 😄

Are you saying that this video should be 14min instead of 7min long, or that I should have spent 6 rather than 3 months on this project?

If they get it right the first time, then they can't sell us the upgrade a few years later 😉

Jebus, this is a pain to watch my batteries and count. I have 25 more batteries to do.

US 2024-05-10 6Ah J51BHTHB 2023-01-20 0101 0381 0010 0257 (Different battery than above) US 2024-05-10 6Ah J51BHTHB 2023-01-20 0101 0385 0010 0257 US 2024-05-10 6Ah J51BHTHB 2023-01-20 0101 0381 0010 0257 (Different battery than above) US 2024-05-10 5Ah J51BHTHB 2016-10-16 no-codes US 2024-05-10 8Ah J51BHTHB 2019-01-29 no-codes

Impressive consistency to have exactly 10 cycles on each 6Ah! You have some of the rare xxxx-HT-xx batteries. Nearly all so far have been xxxx-DC-xx. The only other HT batteries are also 6Ah from the US with 257 4th code. Made Aug 2022, so pretty close to yours Your 5Ah should be G29xDCxx and your 8Ah should be K37xDCxx

@@toolscientist I am still laying hands on all of these to get their codes but I do have their serial numbers already. There are 15 unique leading serial numbers. B22XDCJA B41VDCJA E53LDCBB G29GDCAC G29HDCAC G29HDCBC G29KDCBC G29NDCBC H18FDCAD J51BDCHB J51BHTHB J51FDCHB J52ADCAF J52CDCHC K37ADCAF

@@toolscientist The 5AH is an XC with a serial number of G29GDCAC 161021 I also have 5ah that are: G29GDCAC G29HDCBC G29KDCBC G29NDCBC

Unfortunately not. The dust at the bottom of the cannister has little effect on the flow. What matters is how much dust gets in the filter. My mods slow down how quickly the dust gets into the filter, but they still let some through. So the flow will continue to decrease until you clean the filter.

Thanks! Sometimes the vid feels like the hardest part. I got to have some fun with this one, though. I think hypnotic-eyed James Dyson was my favourite part 😄

Yeah, I've been disappointed with most. They all clog up too quickly. Need a good cyclone or pulsed air filter cleaning. None of them are any good for home use as they lack a powered head. I think there's a Ryobi with a powered head.

​@@toolscientist I'm hoping PF will do a comparison on small handhelds. Did you see Torque Test Channel recent video on (edit: universal battery and) adapters? Thought of you str8 away.

@Hagar76a didn't he do handhelds last week? They were all residential vacs, though. Even amongst tool brands there's so many variations. PF tends to end up with outdated models for some of the brands, so it's often a bit apples to oranges. I saw the CEENR vid of TTCs. I made a comment there. Looks like it's a pack with stand-alone protection. From TTCs load tests, it was losing 1V compared to the Bosch and Dewalt, which works out to about 27mOhm extra resistance. They must be using really bad mosfets to get that as you can get 10mOhm from $0.60 mosfets. There must be some other source of resistance, maybe thin traces on the PCB. They look to be using a pair of 5mOhm shunts (so 2.5mOhm total) which is 10x more than Makita uses.

@@toolscientist yeah he did upright/combo domestic. I just need a small handheld for small cleanups. That's disappointing. A true universal battery system can only help to bring the costs down for consumers, if its done right. It is great that they are using 40T exclusively. Keeps it simple.

I'm winning!

I think Milwaukee intended for the inner to be a cyclone, but ditched it late in the design. I suspect they hit problems with having too much resistance, or having an inlet that's prone to clogging. I somewhat solved those problems by going multi-inlet, which isn't a conventional cyclone design. There's also cost. I can make it as complex as I like because I don't need to mass produce it. It is strange that no construction grade vacuum has tried proper cyclonic separation (the Makita stick vacs are the closest). Cyclone's are obviously well established in residential vacs, but construction vacs just use pulsed air to knock dust out of the filter. It's a challenging design to get that balance between filtration and flow loss. Adding a cyclone will always reduce the flow, but it helps in the long run

Too tall as it is. If I do more work on this, I'll compare all the designs (Stairmand, Lapple, Bill Pentz, Dust Deputy, Dyson, and a few others that I've found in research papers). Whichever one gives me the best filtration for a given pressure loss will be what I use.

Did the clear cannister break?

Were you trying to watch it embedded on another site? I'll check the settings

Ok, I'd turned off embedding for some reason. Should be working now.

@@toolscientist Awesome, it's working now. I love your scientific approach and tinkering with stuff 😊💖 Also: Nice turd you got there 😁

​@@michaelseitz8938 where were you watching this video?

@@riba2233 On UA-cam. I guess an extension confused UA-cam ...

Not massive. That whole inner cone is 180mm diameter and I think 230mm deep. My printer is 100x100x100mm though. The inlet ring had to be done in 4 parts. Any thoughts on decent printers? I could try getting someone else to print it, but tolerances need to be fairly good, so I'll have to do a few iterations.

Yeah, it was a bit of a disappointment. They would have been better off just using a big cylindrical filter with a pre-filter bag. First time I used it, it only lasted a few hours of light drilling before needing the filter cleaned. Then I took it apart and realised it wasn't really cyclonic at all. That was 2020, so I finally got around to pimping it 4 years later.

@@toolscientist ok that doesn't sound bad at all. My rec would be qidi Q1 pro, it has sturdy chassis, heated chamber and klipper firmware with a good extruder system and is almost a bargain for what it offers. And you will want a heated chamber as someone like you would print abs and PC mainly :)

@@toolscientist you might wanna get a Bambu printer? for the P1 series the print size is 256mm on all 3 axis, print time's fast too so it saves you some time between iterations bloody amazing job with that design btw!

@wingka I've been tempted by the Bambu's as I'd like something that just works. The Qidi Q1 Pro is half the price for the same build volume, though. Looks like I've got to read a whole lot of reviews. Been 10 years since I bought a 3D printer, so I imagine a lot has changed.

Everyone needs a backpack vac. Riding the bus and dirt on the seat? Backpack vac. Walking down the street and litter on the ground? Backpack vac. Plus you can pretend to be a ghostbuster!

@@toolscientist plus it's Milwaukee! I'm always looking for reasons to buy stuff I don't need in Red! Lmao

Thanks! Never seen a 2.8Ah. It has the same code (B41LD) as other people's 3Ah

@@toolscientist actually, mine were in Watt*hours so I saw a number consistent on the batteries that I presumed was the amp hour equivalent.. I'll get the data later for you

@@toolscientist ok so here it is - All of my batteries are tagged in WATT*HOURS, not AMP HOURS. I wasn't sure about some of them but I noticed that the "CAT(alog) NUMBER" ended in the same two numbers as the AMP*HOUR RATING based on newer model numbers (XC 4.0) - the "2.8 Ah" battery is called an XC with no number, just XC. If UA-cam would allow me to send you a photo, you'd see. Here's the data: 1. M18 RedLithium 27Wh ("1.5Ah") Cat. No. 48-11-1815 <-- ends in "15" 2. M18 RedLithium 27Wh (1.5Ah) Cat. No. 48-11-1815 3. M18 RedLithium XC 54Wh (2.8Ah) Cat. No. 48-11-1828 4. M18 RedLithium HD9.0 162Wh (9.0 Ah) Cat. No. 48-11-1890 5. M18 RedLithium XC4.0 72Wh (4.0Ah) Cat. No. 48-11-1840 6. M18 RedLithium XC4.0 72Wh (4.0Ah) Cat. No. 48-11-1840

Older Makita batteries were very basic. Newer ones have a lot more intelligence, so they're more prone to bricking themselves when they detect a fault.

Might take me a while to get to Festool. They're low on my list and not very common, so it'll be hard to find someone selling 2nd hand ones. I'd say end of this year at the earliest, but more likely next year.